1 The Gaetano Filangieri Civic Museum
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I am the director Paolo Jorio and I welcome you to the Civic Museum Gaetano Filangieri. 

Paolo Jorio, director of the Filangieri Museum in Naples

Prepare for a journey that will take you back in time to a place that I am sure will amaze and fascinate you, thanks to a visionary and enlightened mind: that of Prince Gaetano Filangieri junior, then we'll see whose!

Portrait of Gaetano Filangieri. Edgardo Saporetti circa 1885.

Let's start with the history of this ancient fifteenth-century palace. We are inside Palazzo Como, which Neapolitans have nicknamed The Walking Palace

Because this building really walked! In the year 1884, a severe cholera epidemic erupted in Naples. At the end of the pandemic, which caused as many as 15000 deaths, King Umberto I visited the city together with the prime minister Agostino De Gasperi who declared:

We must gut Naples!

King Umberto I of Savoy among the cholera sufferers in Naples. Illustration circa 1885

At this statement, the famous journalist Matilde Serao responded:

Gut Naples? Do you think that will suffice? Do you flatter yourselves that three or four streets, through the popular quarters, will save them? You will see, you will see, when the studies, for this holy work of redemption, are completed, what most brilliant truth will emerge: it must be redone.

Matilde Serao, Italian writer and journalist. She was the first Italian woman to have founded and directed a daily newspaper. Author of numerous publications including the Belly of Naples